Joined: 02/05/2008 Posts: 340
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You’re underway at
sea when you hear, “Fire in the galley!” What would be the correct extinguishing agent
for this fire? Which extinguishing agent would be the wrong choice? By quickly
identifying the type of material that is burning and knowing which
extinguishing agent to apply, you should have a positive outcome.
Water
Water is a universal extinguishing
agent, but it’s not the best choice for all types of fires. Water is the best
choice for Class A (solid materials such as wood, cloth, rubber) fire
extinguishment and for boundary cooling. Water affects the fire by removing the
heat. The smaller the water droplets the more heat is absorbed; smaller water
droplets create greater surface area than large water droplets. For cabin areas
with large amounts of Class A material, water is the best extinguishing agent.
However, a primary
concern when using water is a vessel’s stability condition. As water is applied
to fight a fire, it is retained inside the vessel. Furniture and carpets retain
water and the additional weight could affect stability. Also, large pools of
water will affect stability because of the Free Surface Effect or unrestricted
movement of liquid. As water moves around the vessel it constantly changes the
ship’s stability. If enough water is retained, it could cause a negative stability
condition.
Foam
Foam is the best choice for Class A
& B fires (solid materials and flammable liquids or gases). Foam also can
be used for fire prevention and protection. Applying foam to a flammable liquid
spill greatly reduces the chances of a fire. Foam performs multiple actions on
a fire while most other extinguishing agents perform only one. The three
actions of foam are cooling, smothering and separating. Water is the largest
component in foam and therefore cools the fire. The foam “blanket” smothers the
fire. The foam separates the flammable vapors from mixing with oxygen,
preventing the liquid from igniting.
Carbon Dioxide
Carbon Dioxide can be used for Class B
& C fires (flammable liquids or gases, and electrical or energized devices).
CO2 affects the fire by displacing the oxygen. CO2 is the
first choice for an electrical fire because it does not destroy or damage equipment
and it does not conduct electricity. When using CO2 on a flammable
liquid fire, a concentration of 34 percent is needed for extinguishment. The
use of CO2 has the greatest potential for re-flash because it only
displaces the oxygen momentarily. When possible, the first action before
electrical fire extinguishment is power isolation. Electricity is most likely causing the fire.
Once the power is isolated, there is a reduced
risk of the fire re-flashing. The greatest hazard with CO2 is
suffocation as it displaces oxygen in the body if inhaled in large amounts.
This can occur when CO2 is discharged into small or confined spaces.
This hazard also can be encountered if personnel are trapped in an Engine Room
and the Total Flooding System is discharged. If the CO2 Total
Flooding System has been discharged, anyone reentering the engine room should
wear a Self -Contained Breathing Apparatus (SCBA)
Dry Chemical (Dry Powder)
Dry Chemical (or Dry Powder, depending on where you are from) can be used on
multiple types of fires: Class A, B & C or B & C depending on the
chemical makeup of the powder. A Multi-purpose Dry Chemical is appropriate for
Class A, B & C fires, and Ordinary Dry Chemical is appropriate for B & C fires. Dry Chemical affects the
fire by breaking the chemical chain reaction, thereby preventing the fuel and
oxygen molecules from bonding together. Dry Chemical is the second choice for flammable
liquids, if foam is not available, and it is the second choice for electrical
fires due to the corrosive nature of the powder. Dry Chemical will work on a
Class A fire, but there is a risk of re-flash because it may not reach the deep-seated
heat in a Class A fire.
Halon
Although it’s been banned from further
production since 1994 for its effects on the ozone layer, Halon can still be
found in extinguishers or Fixed Fire Suppression Systems. Halon affects fire by
breaking the chemical chain reaction. There are three types of Halon; 1202,
1211, and 1301. Halon 1202 is the rarest. Halon 1211 is still common and can be
found in extinguisher form; it’s best suited for Class B & C fires but
should be used only for exterior fire fighting due to its toxicity. Halon 1301 is still found in fixed fire
suppression systems, such as Engine Room systems. FM 200, which is a Halon
replacement, works on a similar principle as Halon by chemically extinguishing
fire with the added benefit of cooling.
Dry Powder (Dry Chemical)
Dry Powder (or Dry Chemical, depending
on where you are from) is a metal fire-extinguishing agent. Dry Powder will only
work on certain types of metal fires. This extinguishing agent is not commonly
carried on a luxury yacht. Magnesium flares would be the most likely source of
a metal-based fire. In the event of a metal- based fire the best course of
action is to jettison whatever is burning, if possible. If you cannot jettison the
item, applying large amounts of water is the best course of action. Extreme
caution must be taken as there will be an explosive reaction upon water
application.
APC
APC or Aqueous Potassium Bicarbonate is
commonly referred to as Wet Chemical. APC is the best choice for fire in grease
fryers. APC has extinguishing properties similar to foam, and it also inhibits
flames when mixed with grease. APC is fast acting but also potentially toxic. After
the fire has been extinguished and sufficient cooling time has passed, use extreme
caution and the correct protective clothing are for cleanup. If APC is carried
on board, the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) should be reviewed for the appropriate
cleanup procedure. APC can be found in extinguisher form or in a fixed
system.
Now, back to fighting
your shipboard galley fire emergency, a Class B fire in the grease fryer. You that now know the differences between
extinguishing agents, which is the correct agent to extinguish this fire? Water
is the worst choice. Foam could work but you would
still be applying water. CO2 would work but the fire will instantly re-flash
due to heat retention in the grease and the surrounding metal components. Dry
Chemical will work but the fire would re-flash. The best extinguishing agent is
APC.
To prepare your crew
for a fire emergency, conduct the following drill. Have each crew member independently check to
see what types of extinguishers are in the different areas of the vessel, and
determine if the extinguisher and extinguishing agent are the best choice for a
fire in that area.
______
By Tom Jones, a Training Manager at Resolve Maritime Academy,
1510 S.E. 17 St., Suite 400, Ft. Lauderdale, Fl. 33316, Tel: 877-975-3473, info@ resolveacademy.com,
www.resolveacademy.com
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Joined: 10/05/2008 Posts: 21
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Great information. Do you have any suggestions on the use of FM-200 and Halotron 1.
Thanks
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Joined: 25/04/2010 Posts: 2
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Near a beach ? collect dry and wet sand for possible fire extinguishing, we used that "expensive stuff" often when our "fiesta" fires became out of control. Yes it is heavy, but it can be used as ballast partly. Can put that technically advanced stuff on about anything, i did on a burning engine worked just fine.
You can also used crushed ice from the ice box.
All kitchen cooking areas must have swing down metal lids, no water on burning oils !
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Joined: 17/09/2008 Posts: 94
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Would be nice to have mentioned atomised water droplets: aka 'Hi Fog'!
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Joined: 01/06/2008 Posts: 1008
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For a typical galley fire, you forgot the most useful extinguishing agent of all, a Fire Blanket. Most Galley fires are small grease fires. The blanket does a fine job of these and limits the spreading of the fire that a pressurized agent can cause by breaching the containment.
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Joined: 30/06/2012 Posts: 35
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Tom love to discuss Flame Proofing Textiles with you.
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