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black exhaust marks on a white hull?
Andy Davies
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 2:25 PM
Joined: 22/06/2008
Posts: 4


hi does any one know of a magical cure for the inevitable black exhaust marks on a white hull?

cheers

Henning
Posted: Monday, March 1, 2010 5:01 AM
Joined: 01/06/2008
Posts: 1049


Wax
junior
Posted: Monday, March 1, 2010 8:34 AM
Joined: 14/01/2009
Posts: 1026


Once the Awlgrip oxidizes and goes porous, exhaust marks are hard to wipe off. As Henning said your only choice is a new surface...wax or polish...I like the Seapower stuff with teflon. Easy to use. . Before you put the new wax surface on make sure the area around the exhaust doesn't have a buildup of Calc from evaporating sea water. Give it a good wash with boat soap then acid treat, Ospho, strong vinegar or whatever, the area to pull the calc off and remove the organic stains from the paint surface..... then give it a wax treatment. You must remove the calc and organic stains before applying the new surface.
Tedd Greenwald
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 5:16 PM
Joined: 26/09/2009
Posts: 8


I run a boat with 32 year old 2 stroke Detroits and we had a black hull and transom from side exhausts every run we took. One day I got a brainstorm to detune the motors and install smaller injectors. Took the 12's back to factory stock. Not only did out fuel burn decrease dramatically I nearly ever have to clean soot off the hull sides. The answer about the old paint being a dirt magnet is also correct and you need a lot of elbow grease to keep compound out oxidation and apply wax over the smoothed out surface. I'm trying this new "marine restore" product that swears 3 years of protection. Boat next to us swears by it. If you can find a place that sells elbow grease let me know. The best way to keep off soot is to not let the engines put it there in the first place. Or Paint it Black? Better get off the computer and get to work!
oli99
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 7:07 PM
Joined: 08/04/2009
Posts: 3


Diam-Nett 'Super-Next' alkaline cleaner is good
Anonymous
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 7:12 PM
Nothing off the shelf can do it. It needs to be Deep cleaned, Protected with Polymers and then further Protection with nano-technology. Contact Nauticare for Super Yachts www.nauticare.com You cant put wax on top of dirt. How does it stick. The Engine overhaul and injector suggestion should be done first and is the correct way to eliminate the source of the problem.
Anonymous
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 7:15 PM
No such thing as magic. Pay the professionals to do it. If you dont have the budget, change to a yacht that does!! haha
Anonymous
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 8:36 PM
Spray area with PAM non stick and wash off after the run and re apply.  It works on front end grills of cars thru love bug season in mid state. They wash off without sticking to the paint  even from engine heat baking them on  etc.......
UKEngineer
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 10:08 PM
Joined: 19/01/2010
Posts: 33


Andy, being a qualified marine engineer, I agree with anon up there. You need to change your diesel injectors for brand new, or reconditioned items. They can be changed on an 'exchange' basis, so you pay a surcharge and then send your old ones back later and get the surcharge refunded. NO NEED FOR AN ENGINE OVERHAUL, although you may want to change the high pressure fuel pump too, if the engine has had a lot of hours put on it over the years. Black deposits build up inside pumps and a new or reconditioned item will give a noticable difference in engine performance. They are a vital part of the fuel system and for Pete's sake do not ever, ever consider smaller injectors as Tedd has up there. Smaller injectors will not allow the correct amount of fuel into the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber needs a small amount of unburnt fuel to help cool it down. A small injector will be struggling to cope as it is without asking it for a bit of unburnt fuel too. Tedd's engine will be running hot and he is shortening the life of his engine by using smaller injectors (sorry to be the bearer of bad news Tedd, old boy). The reason it cleared up Tedd's black hull problem is because they were probably new/reconditioned items.
Henning
Posted: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 10:19 PM
Joined: 01/06/2008
Posts: 1049


Anonymous wrote:
Nothing off the shelf can do it. It needs to be Deep cleaned, Protected with Polymers and then further Protection with nano-technology. Contact Nauticare for Super Yachts www.nauticare.com You cant put wax on top of dirt. How does it stick. The Engine overhaul and injector suggestion should be done first and is the correct way to eliminate the source of the problem.


You don't put the wax on top, the wax has hydrocarbon solvents, the soot is hydrocarbon soot. The wax picks up the hydrocarbon soot and holds it in suspension until you wipe it away. I've been polishing and waxing stuff since I was 8, I'm 44 now. I've tried nearly every product that's been marketed, and that website just shows me more "snake oil". All the great buzz words are used without giving a real accounting of the product. I love using the description of "Polymer", grease is a "polymer" too.

Collenite Insulator Wax is pretty much the best product I have found for protecting paint and cleaning up stuff. If you leave it go long enough, then you need to get out the Perfect It and Finesse It and buffer and get yourself back to a good surface. To this point, there is no one who has developed a Miracle Product (and personally I think Awl Care products are a scam). If anyone really believes that you can't buff Awl Grip, I invite you to come on down to Brissie and see the results.

Deckies, 1 hr of waxing per day, with that, the boat always stays shiny and you never have to buff it. Start at the top, work you way down, front to rear or however you like, just one hour in the morning while it's cool at a relaxed pace with a cup of coffee. When you finished the boat, start over. A good Awl Grip job will last 15 years or better if you just do that. Wax the varnish too, you'll be amazed how much longer it lasts. It's really not that much work, and Collenite Insulator Wax is very easy on and off.

I own no stock and have no affiliation with Collenite, I just buy and use their product. I wonder if that can be said about Anonymous' reference to Nauticare.

Henning
Posted: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 4:02 AM
Joined: 01/06/2008
Posts: 1049


Anonymous wrote:
No such thing as magic. Pay the professionals to do it. If you dont have the budget, change to a yacht that does!! haha


I don't care if I have a Billion dollar budget, any deck hand that came to me saying they wanted to contract that out would be looking for a new job the next day. Basic cleaning and maintenance is what a yacht deckie's primary job is. These aren't work boats that run round the clock every day. There's plenty of time for deck crew to get out there, clean and wax, touch up small paint issues.... There is even a fair amount of skill and knowledge at it to be gained that comes with experience, experience you never get if you contract everything out. Not to mention a bit of pride in a job well done. Shipyard evolutions and such, I agree, you call in more people, but the day to day upkeep, that's the crews job. The only exceptions I make to that is when there are local kids looking to do some work like in the islands.

junior
Posted: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 6:03 AM
Joined: 14/01/2009
Posts: 1026


Hmm...PAM ! I never thought about that stuff.. going to give it a try on my white Nova Marine rib waterline....that baby picks up harbour bog in seconds...
Anonymous
Posted: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 6:49 AM
Andy, waxing is good advice, if hull is already clean! But it seems to me that your trying to get it clean, in the first place? Through similar frustration and a little experimentation I discovered that 'Inflatable Boat and Fender Cleaner' cuts through black exhaust marks very easily. Designed for cleaning polymers it is gentle on the paintwork (we are finished in Awlgrip). I've tried a couple of brands that work very well including Starbrite and Epifanes. Both are 'creamy' in texture and seem to work well, whereas other brands I've tried and just didn't cut it were 'watery' in texture. I guess it just gets absorbed into the cloth or runs off unlike the 'creamy' versions. Hope this helps
RCoff512
Posted: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 12:57 PM
Joined: 06/01/2010
Posts: 1


I've had some luck with Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and water.
Andy Davies
Posted: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 7:54 PM
Joined: 22/06/2008
Posts: 4


cheers guys all very useful

Chris Caplan
Posted: Thursday, March 4, 2010 12:28 AM
Joined: 02/12/2008
Posts: 1


3M Finesse or Spray 9 work well..

Anonymous
Posted: Thursday, March 4, 2010 12:47 PM
Contact Nate at Shine Yachts, they treat the boat with a nano wax.....brilliant!!! Before this boat was treated, the hull would go yellow, the soot would take a day of elbow grease just to remove from the back deck, now we just wash her down with baby shampoo, chami and are back to a sparkly white. Really can't rave enough about this product, expensive, but well worth talking to your owner about it...oh and also it has probably given us another 3 -5 years before the boat needs to be repainted (before it needed it).

Anonymous
Posted: Friday, March 5, 2010 2:56 PM
I always wanted to work with a guy who knows everything. They are very rare. FYI. Project Orca is confidential so dont ask questions about it in a forum. open your mind and close your mouth.
Laurie
Posted: Friday, March 5, 2010 3:36 PM
Joined: 29/09/2009
Posts: 1


Hello Guys, I have on my vessel massive exhausts. At the yard period now i have just finished polishing them with 3m finesse it and now i am going to apply some wax to them, I read above about the collinite wax, i have some. I was going to use this for the stainless but now ill try it on the exhausts, thanks buddy. Last season to clean the exhausts i used, roll off or spray 9 with a 3m magic eraser pad and they work so good its unbelievable. Came back looking like new. As the season goes on it will get tougher to bring to new but just make sure in the yard period you polish and wax. Put the hard work in then and you will find it easier to clean during the season. Hope this helps. roll off or spray 9 with a magic eraser. they are the white pads
Chief
Posted: Friday, March 5, 2010 4:04 PM
Joined: 02/06/2008
Posts: 341


UKEngineer wrote:
"Andy, being a qualified marine engineer, ...The combustion chamber needs a small amount of unburnt fuel to help cool it down. ... Tedd's engine will be running hot and he is shortening the life of his engine by using smaller injectors ..."
 
 
Good grief ... I don't think I have ever read three statements that are as far off the reality dock as those ...
 
For the owner's sake, I sincerely hope the UK engineer's "qualifications" are in mining or road building because we have proof his diesel skills are, to put it politely, lacking.
 
UKEngineer, please delete that post before some budding young engineer believes it is founded on fact.


bob kimball
Posted: Saturday, March 6, 2010 3:01 PM
Joined: 22/06/2008
Posts: 3


Re : black exhaust streaks on hull

            lets try with the source......

having gone through this, we put a fuel polishing system with alge x  and fuel cepts and checked the injectors...

and Magic....and no more black streaks


Mylespe
Posted: Monday, March 8, 2010 1:12 AM
Joined: 02/08/2008
Posts: 6


i will second 3m finnesse or spray 9, had this problem when running off genny solidly for months even when alongside, and these worked well. would wax regularly after cleaning with the above.


Sea-Shield
Posted: Saturday, June 4, 2011 4:24 PM
Joined: 11/09/2009
Posts: 2


We are introducing a product to our line call SEA-SHIELD Exhaust Guard Sealant  this product chemistry doesn't allow exhaust to stick.(of course the surface most be well prepare before you apply this product)  The exhaust  can be remove with regular boat soap.    We have boats that are 2 to 10 year old Awlgrip, Steerling, Alexseal and Gel coat the are having great result. This product works great with  SEA-SHIELD Dull Paint Restoration System.  If you have any questions call me direct 619-205 2126 Francisco Linares our email me francisco@sea-shield.com  SEA-SHIELD Yacht Premium Products.

Anonymous
Posted: Tuesday, February 7, 2012 4:43 PM
Hello, for those of you who are still having problems with soot, and have done what you can to resolve the levels being emitted by the engine (but are still having problems)...please visit www.dcl-inc.com and click on the marine tab for more information regarding the MARINE-X Diesel particulate filter which is custom designed for each yacht and will reduce the soot by 99%. This system will completely eliminate the soot/sheen on the water, as well as the black marks that soot creates on the hull.
JohnSail
Posted: Saturday, June 1, 2013 9:01 AM
Joined: 06/07/2010
Posts: 61


Hey Andy

 

The DCL partical filter works great, BUT if your owners not going to spend that money on it, you have to polish it back to white then I would suggest a product called Dulon which is a 2 part protector goes on easy and keeps the shine, and keeps the dirt off.

 

I have seen people using magic erasers but thats like using sand paper, so I wouldnt do that !


Chief_1
Posted: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 3:13 PM
Joined: 02/06/2008
Posts: 341


"The DCL partical filter works great, BUT ..."

 

Unless your generator runs at high loads all the time and your exhaust temperature is well above the regeneration temperature of the filter element, they will rapidly clog and like many others who have installed passive filters, you will end up taking the elements out and end up with nothing more than an expensive housing and a dirty hull.

 

DeAngelo Marine Exhaust in Fort Lauderdale has developed a better filter system and also have a retrofit solution for non or poorly functioning particulate filters that assures proper filter regeneration. Call and ask about the SeaClean system.


 
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